To describe the indescribable-how to i do it? That is how to describe the experience of a westerner in Vietnam during the Tet or new years festival. I remember it was 1968 or 1969 and i was in Junior High School (today called middle school). I was in social studies class and the teacher was explaining to us about the Tet offensive in Vietnam and how the whole country exploded into violence from the American Embassy in Saigon to the American Base in Danang to the city of Hue. The north Vietnamese and Vite Cong suffered heavily but it turned American public opinion against the war and contributed to the end and the American pullout a few years later. I'm sitting near the gulf of Ton kin reading about the American Revolution and i cant help but draw parallels to the Vietnamese tactics and those of George Washington against the British. OK so how do i describe this? I don't think i can. how do i describe the look and excitement on the children's faces when the men of the family bring home a 6 foot tall potted tangerine tree and a flowering pink beach tree to the ocean front guest house where i am staying 3 hours outside of Hanoi. How do i describe sitting in a families temple as I'm being shown the 13 generations of the families lineage on a wall chart while the men bring out drums,traditional instruments, beer and cigarettes and pound and play away for 30 minutes as they say goodbye to the old year and welcome the new. How do i describe sleeping in my guest house room and a knock awakens we at 1145pm. i open the door and the guest house owner and his family are there urging me to the lobby to welcome the new year with them. At 3am another knock and i am invited back down to numerous toasts to the year of the tiger. How to describe standing on a beachfront wall with a 360 degree view of the flat horizon. 180 degrees is ocean and the remaining 180 degrees explodes into fireworks as every village on the flat horizon sets off their own displays. I stand with the guest house family and the 8 year old daughter grabs my hand and jumps up and down in awe and excitement as i watch the fireworks dance reflected off her huge dark eyes. How to describe visiting the guesthouse owners 76year old father with their teenage son just past midnight and he greats me with tears and a huge smile shaking my hand over and over. This man is a retired highly decorated officer in the North Vietnamese Army who fought against the French in the 1950s and Americans in the 1960s. He shows my a photo albumin of himself with many high ranking people and a box full of medals and commendations. He tells me through a translation of his grandson that he feels friendship with the American and french people as well as the military. It was the American and French leadership that were the enemies. I'm told that the first visitor of the new year is the most important and he was so honored that his first visitor was a Westerner and especially an American. He says that I'm the first American to experience Tet in this rural countryside. Now how do i explain the looks and excitement on the faces of my friend viets young nieces and nephews on new years morning when i and all the adults hand them new years "lucky money". We spend the day walking around the village visiting relations and friends. Viets new wife Sim holds his arm with one hand and takes my hand with the other. I am welcomed by all as a family member by both Viets and Sims family. What follows is much eating,drinking socializing and playing with children. the children call me Ong Tay which in Vietnamese means "Mr Western". Viets mother will not say goodbye to me as she explains that i am now part of the family and will always return and his father gives me a big hug and kiss on the cheek beaming hugely! So as i started-how do i explain all of this? this is a very feeble attempt to explain what i cant. Ive tried my best with my limited skills and believe me when i say it-I have fallen far short! so to all my family and friends in Vietnam American and around the world i say " Chuc Mung Nam Moi" happy new year year of the tiger 2010 C |
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